51 kodak moments in Kenya

It's been a couple of weeks since I got back from Kenya, I've spent hours and hours (enjoyable mind) on the post processing of the photos and they are ready for showcasing. I've put them all up on Fuselagetown's Kenya Gallery - Or 51 kodak moments in Kenya as I like to call it... I've also uploaded them to my Flickr Photostream but they are of lower resolution over there.

During my stay in Kenya I blogged regularly over at the Team Kenya website, and I've now copied the content over for my readers to catch up.. Here goes nothing..

Airborne - Oct 22

I'm finally on the flight from Amsterdam to Nairobi and I've had my first introduction to Kenya - their local lager beer Tusker. Not too bad. I'm planning to drink quite a few cans and then I'll sleep like a child. I wonder if I'm aware what I'm about to do here, I've never got to know really poor people before - god knows how I'll react to it. Fellow traveller John from Team Kenya told me that they've taken students before who has said in hindsight that the trip changed their perception of life and turned them into better people. I'm not a rebel myself (well perhaps a little) but I think this trip might give me something that I wasn't expecting. Very excited now!

schiphol

The fancy mobiles - Oct 23

We're safe and sound in Nairobi, it's raining but I'm loving the temperature. We've just met our driver Richard, - I'm in the van for the "big people", strange as I've never been referred to as a big person before. The vans are pretty old and I don't think they would've even passed as a "russebil" back home. I'm in the front seat hanging out the window like a dog (not barking)..

Richard Driver

Rocky roads (or cherry vanilla?) - Oct 23

I can't believe the roads in this country. In every village we have driven through, the people, animals and cars are all fighting to get ahead in the same space. Our driver Richard is a skilled chauffeur so he knows what he's doing. Where the roads are in the worst state we just seem to try and find a path with less holes and just steam ahead. In many cases that means we're 3 cars next to eachother going in the same direction, with no room for ...Traffic in the opposite direction you say? Whoever has got the crappiest car will budge then.. Is the car making strange sounds? Not a problem, Richard just hangs out the window to check if the tyre is flat. Scaresly 3 lanes!

The one where I'm up all night? - Oct 23

I can't sleep. I'm quite tipsy on the local brew, but that's not the reason why. I'm just too excited. I can't believe how much I've seen and experienced just on one day, and I can't wait for the stuff that's about to come. We arrived at the tea hotel in Kericho around 4 ish (2 hours later than planned, but that's just how things work in Kenya!). Me met up with Mary and Alfred. Mary and Val go way back, they've worked together on several projects since 1999. They shared useful stories about what to say and how to behave around the people in Ndhiwa, so I've now picked up on a few phrases in swahili and the local language in the Ndhiwa constituency. It's 9 o'clock UK time, but 11 here, maybe that's why I can't get to sleep? We've got an early start so best do it soon.

The resource centre... - Oct 24

...is absolutely fantastic. Team Kenya have really done and outstanding job getting this up. Every time we visit the centre, it's packed of kids and adults doing all sorts of things - reading, emailing etc.

DIY - Oct 24

We've all taken on different tasks - there is plenty that needs doing around the cottage. I can't understand how people can work in this heat though, so I took on a fairly relaxed job which was to make a sign for the girls and boys loo. I cut out a stencil and stuck it to the door and then painted it white. Quite happy with the result. Next job is to make a timber sign and a flag. Can someone get me a flag pole?

A visit to the prison - Oct 24

We popped by the local prison and the warden immediately invited us in to meet the prisoners! They were about 10 people in one cell, and an eight (!!) year old boy in the other cell sleeping, who was in there as a victim of corruption. We got to see the wardens office, and had a quick spy at the list of convictions, and who had done what!

Ndhiwa Police Station and Prison

Ndhiwa! - Oct 24

We've arrived at Ndhiwa after a 4ish hour drive from Kericho and a pit stop at a supermarket to buy essentials. It's really strange to finally be here, it feels slightly unreal so from time to time I just have to stop and think about the fact that I'm in the middle of nowhere in Africa. Arriving at the new cottages was quite emotional for the team, even I could feel tears in my eyes, and I haven't even been involved in the building process! Ndhiwa: The Strip! Ndhiwa: The Strip!

Hotstepper! - Oct 25

It's red hot! And I've had my hair braided like a true Kenyan! Yes, I know it's a bit teenager but I feel young at heart these days.

Scranfest - Oct 25

Food here is delicious. We have 4 women cooking for us. We get really nice omelettes for dinner (and even without the egg-whites for the problematic dinner guest that is me!) with tomatoes and onions. MMM

Where we stay: Karibuni Cottages Where we stay: Karibuni Cottages

I feel minging! - Oct 25

The kenyans are gorgeous! Not all of them of course but most of them. I'm a right rank trout next to these guys with my remarkably pale exterior.

First attempt to Ruma - Oct 26

Well it didn't go exactly according to plan, but it was quite and experience. We were wanting to take some of the Kenyan kids to Ruma National Reserve. The park only 30 mins drive from Ndhiwa, and it is the home of the roan antelopes and also the rothschild giraffes. The drive there was an adventure in itself, to be honest it made the country road that goes to my parents' chalet look like the Autostrada! We'd just about got in when the roads started to get really muddy and the van were skidding from side to side on the track with us tourists and kenyan kids hanging out the sun roof. Then we got stuck in the mud

So we got stuck and had to go back. We tried to get a refund from the warden but not a chance! Sad to miss out on the giraffes, but we did see a monkey on our way out.

After the attempt to do Ruma, we drove up to a viewpoint to have a look. We let the Kenyan kids play with the binoculars, but to be honest they weren't that interested in looking at the view, looking at each other - much more fun! Ruma Crew

Early mornings - Oct 26

This morning I brushed my teeth watching the sunrise. I don't think I've ever seen the sunrise before...

Okay then: Here's the sunrise at Karibuni Okay then: Here's the sunrise at Karibuni

The poorest of the poor - Oct 27

Katie, Sarah, Beth and myself were invited to come with Madame Rispa to go to some homes in the outskirts of Ndhiwa to meet really needy people at their houses. We were all thinking it would be awful and that we would cry, but to be honest what we saw there was SO awful, we were just stood in silence the whole time we were there. I think it was when we got back to the cottage and had let it sunk in we realised what we'd just seen. The living conditions were atrocious, their houses had only one bed in really bad condition, and the kids slept on a mat on the floor with an old blanket to share. The husband went to out during the day to try and find food, and if he couldn't find any the family would just have to not have any. The little children were excited to see us when we arrived, and where happy to be photographed. Many of them were clearly suffering from starvation, they were really skinny with massive bloated bellies. Some of them had white patches on their head and icky stuff coming out of eyes, noses and mouths. How can society allow this to happen?

Anyone want to join me in the aroma room? - Oct 27

It smells great in Kenya, I can't really put my finger on what it is that makes it special. Sometimes it smells like my dad's shed. The colours are also so beautiful. The red soil and green trees and bushes actually is like the colour scheme we chose for the Team Kenya website.

Balloon day - Oct 27

We've visited Pala this morning, a primary and secondary school really near to where we stay at Karibuni. We had to introduce ourselves to 6-700 students, and I played my norway card and said I'm used to snow and glaciers and that I was struggling in the heat. (Which is true, really). Michael who works at Whitley bay school brought presents from his students to the kids at Pala, and we've just had an absolute ball with balloons, bouncy balls and soap bubbles. It strange how excited a colourful balloon make a child, but my camera bag worth thousands of pounds is left untouched.

Kids from Pala

A break from the sun - Oct 27

I'm sitting at the resource centre with Monica and her little son James, they are both so gorgeous. She's been meeting us every day and I feel like I've made a good friend here already, and it's only been a couple of days! She's been trained by Team Kenya to sew and she's going to make some garments for us. Of course we fancy that! Monica is looking intensely at the monitor as I work my photoshop magic! I suppose it's not an every day thing for her...

Monica, myself and her little boy James

A visit to a nursery - Oct 28

This morning we drove to Kokich nursery which was a great experience. Team Kenya have sponsored this school so the kids can stay in better conditions, and they were very grateful. We brought loads of jumpers, hats and balloons for the kids and look at them how cute they all are.

nursery1

Soap stone mayhem - Oct 29

After leaving Homa Bay and Lake Victoria our van picked up Jane (who's also my hairdresser) as she's the best haggler in the women's group, and drove out to Tabaki to get some cheap soap stone. I really like those ornaments and I picked out stuff and haggled away down to 7000 shillings for the lot which is a good price. Grand master plan is to take all of it back to the UK and sell with a profit which of course goes to the Team Kenya projects.

Soapstone

Desert Island Disc - Oct 29

We discussed this last night over a few tuskers and here's my choice:

1. Kaizers Orchestra - Salt og Pepper

2. Stevie Wonder - Superstition

3. Vamp og Kringkastingsorkesteret - Månemannen

4. Kent - Kevlarsjal

5. 3 doors down - Duck and Run

Now you guys can post your lists in using the comments.

Homa Bay - Oct 29

Yesterday afternoon we drove and hour northbound to Homa Bay, were we stayed overnight at a hotel at the lakefront of Lake Victoria (Africa's biggest lake which can be seen from space). I'm sure the boys were happy having a real bed for a night, they've been camping for a week now. It was nice having a shower and stuff, and would you believe when we were just about to go to bed the TV aired Newcastle United's win over West Brom. Of course we had to watch that so we got a couple more rounds of tusker in and stuck it out. The next morning I went with Michael, Beth, Katie and Gordon on a 2hr boat trip on the lake, and I felt like a fried egg after about a half hour. We tried to find hippos with no luck, but we did see colourful birds and monkeys. All in all a great stay at lake Victoria, and I've now seen Uganda (from really far away, but still).

I've also realised that I'm missing two rounds of the X factor (oh no!) and that this trip is my first time on the southern hemisphere.

Lake Victoria: Sunset Panorama Stitch Lake Victoria: Sunset Panorama Stitch

Sponsorship! - Oct 30

Just wanted to say thanks to all my sponsors, the money you've donated is really going to make a difference for the people here in Ndhiwa. But I haven't reached my target yet, (68% there last time I checked) so keep 'em coming guys!! Donate over at www.everyclick.com/torunn-seimskrogstad Thank you!

Pala high school choir

More DIY - Oct 31

Just before we left for Homa Bay, Gordon and I popped into town to find a seamstress to get some fabric to make a flag. Or, it's more like a banner. One of those triangular ones that we have at our family mountain chalet. Anyways the nice lady said she could do the work for us, so we thought yeah sure why not, and she only charged 300 shillings - all ready to pick up at return from Homa Bay. The flag pole arrived this morning, and we've found a good rope and we'll be having an official flag day with the womens' group tomorrow I think. I've also painted a piece of timber that I bought, and as we speak I'm at the resource centre printing out stencils to spell Karibuni Cottages in red on white background. There is market day in Ndhiwa so I'm going to crash it and buy some cheap gear. It's heaving at the moment and I have only got a half hour before Sam comes to pick me up so best hurry!

Listening carefully - Oct 31

We're sitting here in the Pagoda with Rose from the women's group. Pauline is interviewing and Katie is recording. We're doing these interviews with the women to take the information home, to tell people at home to try and raise more money. They have led the most shocking lives, we're listening to them talk about their children, biligamy (right spelling?), sexual abuse, husbands leaving them behind. We also learn that the women's group have helped them with advice and encouragement. Cameron interviewing one of the students from Pala High

My hand is your hand - Oct 31

The Kenyans are truly lovely people and when we arrived at Ndhiwa all the kids where standing alongside the road waving to us, and of course we were waving back. Everytime we visit a school we have to introduce ourselves in front of everybody, and each and every one wants to shake your hand. Baby wipes and Anti-bac comes in very handy, and I'm not biting my nails (in case you were worried). For some of these kids, meeting us might be the first time they see a white person, and I have noticed a few times that after shaking my hand they look at their own hand to check if it's gone pale...

Listening more! - Oct 31

It's friday, our last day in Ndhiwa. The day dedicated to finish all the bits and bobs we planned to do when we came here. I had promised to go back and visit the seamstress that did our flag, because I had to rush off when I called in to pick it up on wednesday (Kenyans don't rush off, they stop for hours). Whilst the others went to Pala School to challenge the kids in a game of football, Katie and I brought a video camera hoping to do an interview with the seamstress in town, and she was very willing indeed. She gave us the grand tour of the house (which was two beds behind a curtain in her shop) and she told us stories about her husband and children, life in Ndhiwa and hopes for the future. We asked quite sensitive questions about religion and domestic violence, and I hope Team Kenya finds the answers useful so that we can help the community to be a better place to live. I paid the woman 400 shillings (about 3 pounds) for the flag, which meant that she could get new buttons and ribbons for her business, but also that her 3 children could have a proper meal that evening. Hearing things like that breaks my heart. She was so sad to see us leave, begging us to stay until the children came home from school so we could meet. But as always, our schedule was jam packed so had to head back home. A Typical Ndhiwa Shop: Photo by Rachel at our photo session day! A Typical Ndhiwa Shop: Photo by Rachel at our photo session day!

Leaving Ndhiwa - for now! - Nov 1

Saturday morning, it's stupid o'clock and I'm so tired I don't think I'm totally aware that we've just left Karibuni. Mary was crying when she gave me a hug... They are all so sweet, we'll miss them a lot, but we'll be back!

The predators of Masai Mara - Nov 1

I have to say, Gordon was right, this trip ranges from the sublime to the ridiculous. We've arrived at Sarova Mara in the eastern bit of Masai Mara and it's quite something! There's a pool and a buffet, and the orange juice is quadruple the price at Karibuni. The drive out here was incredible. The first view of the mara was simply stunning - I was in awe and so was my camera.

The plains of Masai Mara

We saw all sorts today - elephants, warthogs, giraffes, gazelles, wildebeests, zebras (often heard: "oh no, not another zebra!") lions and more. It was absolutely mint hanging out the sunroof on the safari van. I had a great time!

Simba chilling in the sun

Evening Game Drive - Nov 1

After a quick (after school) dip in the pool we headed out on the plains again - this time at dusk! We saw baby elephants and the sunset was spectacular.

Target reached! - Nov 2

Thanks a lot guys, this is outstanding - Team Kenya and myself are very greatful and 600 pounds is going to go a long way. If I get a say in it the money will go to the food programme at the orphanage (it breaks my heart thinking about those little kids) but either way I can assure you that your money is is good hands and will be spent on sustainable projects that are well looked after by the team - who are planning to head back over to Kenya in March already!

My sponsors

Fundraiser	Date	Amount	Comment
Finn Skrogstad	02-Nov-2008	£265.00
John Collins	27-Oct-2008	£50.00
Orange Bus	27-Oct-2008	£50.00
Låge	23-Oct-2008	£50.00
Miranda Patterson	22-Oct-2008	£10.00	Have a wonderful time!!!!!
Christina Taylor	22-Oct-2008	£20.00	Good luck, great cause :-)
Maryam & Hossein	22-Oct-2008	£20.00	we're glad to be able to play in a part of your dream!G.Luck
Tim Mather	22-Oct-2008	£20.00	Don't get eaten :)
Fran & Ashleigh	21-Oct-2008	£20.00	Have a great time!
Gøril Flatberg	21-Oct-2008	£10.00	Bra engasjement!
Hege Jakobsen	18-Oct-2008	£20.00	Lykke til og god tur til KTC Kenya!
Randi Andersen	18-Oct-2008	£20.00	Lykke til Torunn
Gry Wittenberg	18-Oct-2008	£20.00
Tore Seim	15-Oct-2008	£10.00	Good initiative
Stian Seim Skrogstad	15-Oct-2008	£10.00
Brith Skrogstad	15-Oct-2008	£10.00	Have a nice trip and good luck with raising the £500

Kenya - In hindsight - Nov 4

(click on the red headlines to read the full posts - I have some tech savvy mates who didn't understand that so thought I should point it out)

So, this is it! I made it back to Newcastle in one piece (as did my soap stone). It's been an unbelievable experience for me, I've met so many people, seen so many horrors but also learnt a lot about how we can move forward to help. I've got hours and hours of work ahead of me this week, doing the post processing of 1600 photos. We're planning a reunion in about 2 weeks time to discuss our next step, and I'd like to have 100ish of the best shots selected to present to the team. Example : How post processing can enhance your photographs. Example : How post processing can enhance your photographs.

I'd like to say a big thank you to Val and Gordon for arranging this trip, and for inviting me to take part. It's unbelievable what Team Kenya has achieved in Ndhiwa, and I wish them all the best for the future. Val for Prime Minister! TK Crew: Back row: Val, Katie, Laura, Alex, Cameron, Sarah, Katie, Beth and Richard. Me and Pauline in the middle. Front row: Sam, Michael, Gordon and John. TK Crew: Back row: Val, Katie, Laura, Alex, Cameron, Sarah, Katie, Beth and Richard. Me and Pauline in the middle. Front row: Sam, Michael, Gordon and John.

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